Key West: A Funky Kind of Place
Key West can perhaps best be described of as funky, and in a good sort of way.
We have traveled the U.S. for nearly 50 years and found no other place like it. The island town is full of rustic bars, calypso music, roaming roosters, scooters and bicycles maneuvering through traffic and every kind of watercraft including schooners, fishing boats, and cruise ships. All this surrounded by warm waters of the Gulf and Atlantic make Key West a great place to visit.
We recently spent a week in what residents call the “Conch Republic” and can report little change since our last visit three years ago. The weather was perfect, the roosters still crowed and nearly everyone seemed to be wearing a smile.
Some lingering damage from hurricane Irma was evident, but most things were back to normal. Damage was considerably more extensive in the Middle Keys that bore the brunt of the storm.
Using bicycles for transportation around the island, we downed a couple of margaritas at Margaritaville, enjoyed a sunset cruise on Christmas Eve, joined the craziness of Mallory Square shortly before sunset, and celebrated our 48th wedding anniversary with raw oysters and conch fritters at a rustic waterfront restaurant.
It was a grand week we should have extended considering South Georgia was hit with unusually cold temperatures upon our return home.
With its warm temperatures, plentiful seafood, calypso music, ocean breezes, uniform dress of shorts and T-shirts, Key West has a Caribbean feel. That’s all to the good, especially during winter months when the Midwest and Northeast tend to be cold and depressing.
The heart of Key West is Duval Street, the main tourist artery lined with restaurants, bars, shops, and hotels. Choose a bar with an outside deck, order a margarita, and watch the parade of people.
Nobody is in a hurry and everyone appears to be enjoying themselves.
The Historic Seaport teems with activity. Stroll the area and enjoy the people, boats and seafood restaurants. A variety of boating activities originate at the seaport including sunset cruises (one of our favorite Key West things to do), Jet Ski rentals, fishing charters and transportation to Dry Tortugas National Park. The seaport is a fun place to explore even if you’re uninterested in getting out on the water.
Unless you are on a sunset cruise, Mallory Square, near the north end of Duval Street, is the place to be when the sun begins dipping below the horizon. Once a meeting place for Key West residents and shipwreck salvage operators, the square now serves as a showcase for the unusual including sword swallowers, high-wire acts, trick-performing animals, jugglers, tumblers and musicians.
Each evening, the performers offer their acts for donations. A variety of merchants also set up shop. The whole thing is like a free circus.
In addition to recreational offerings for which it is most noted, Key West has a number of interesting educational venues.
One of the most popular is the home where author Ernest Hemingway lived for more than 10 years during which he wrote several short stories and two of his best-known novels.
Other Key West attractions of interest include the Audubon House, a mid-1800s home commemorating the work of the famed artist; the Eco-Discovery Center with exhibits interpreting habitats of the Keys; the Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory; the Key West Aquarium; and the Key West Shipwreck Museum.
We enjoyed our first visit to the beautifully restored 1891 Custom House and its exhibits relating to the history and culture of Key West.
One of our favorite Key West spots is the Harry S. Truman Little White House. The 33rd U.S. President made 11 trips to Key West where he worked, played poker and fished. The guided tour is excellent. This was the third time we had toured the restored home that initially served as the naval station’s command headquarters.
We certainly haven’t covered everything but you probably get the point that there is a lot to do in Key West other than sitting around the pool drinking margaritas and waiting for the sun to set. We’ve visited on numerous occasions and the Conch Republic never gets old.
David and Kay Scott are authors of “Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges” (Globe Pequot). Visit them at mypages.valdosta.edu/dlscott/Scott.html. The Scotts live in Valdosta, Ga.
Getting there: Direct flights are available to Key West International Airport. Consider flying to Miami and renting a vehicle in order to drive the Overseas Highway.
When to go: Best to visit in November and early December before the big increase in prices and crowds.
Getting around: There is little need for a car in this compact town where empty parking spots are in short supply. Sightseeing trams offer access to nearly all the attractions. Bicycles are the island’s preferred form of transportation. Rentals run $10 to $15 per day or $55 per week.
Lodging: We prefer lodging in or near Old Town where most of the action takes place. The famed Casa Marina is the island’s signature hotel in a town filled with B&Bs. Our most recent stay was at Key Lime Inn on Truman Avenue that is one of six properties included in Historic Key West Inns.
Dining: While in the Conch Republic concentrate on seafood. Conch fritters at Margaritaville are excellent. Arrive at the Half Shell Raw Bar prior to 6:30 p.m. and enjoy conch fritters, boiled shrimp, raw oysters, beer and wine at a reduced price.