TRAVEL: Green Bay is about more than football (Although the Packers are pretty darned important)

People tend to associate Green Bay, Wisconsin, with two things – the city’s NFL football team and blistering cold winters. The quintessential confluence of these two identities was the “Ice Bowl,” the 1967 New Years Eve NFL Championship game when the Green Bay Packers hosted the Dallas Cowboys.  Temperature at game time was 13 degrees below zero, with a wind chill of minus 48 degrees.  Both went downhill as the game progressed.

As important as the Packers are to the identity of Green Bay, this town of 100,000 hardy souls offers a lot more than football, even with Aaron Rodgers as Packer quarterback.  We know because we recently enjoyed a mid-June stay in Green Bay when Piano Man Billy Joel and his crew had seized Lambeau Field for a weekend concert.

We enjoyed a morning strolling through the recently enlarged Packer Hall of Fame, but the majority of our time in Green Bay was devoted to other activities.  These included enjoying a retro amusement park, exploring an interesting historical park and taking a guided tour of an Indian nation attempting to preserve its identity.

Below are five experiences that make a Green Bay visit worthwhile even when you can’t come up with a game ticket.  A stadium tour of Lambeau Field is a must, of course, but don’t miss some other great things offered in or near the city. 

Tour the Oneida Nation 

The Oneida’s homeland of nearly five million acres in upstate New York was being encroached upon when members in the 1830s began moving west to the northeast corner of Wisconsin.  The ensuing treaties, broken promises and outright cheating resulted in the tribe ending up with substantially less land than promised.  The tribe offers excellent three-hour historical and cultural tours.  Guide Kirby Metoxen did an excellent job of explaining the history of his people and the tour proved to be a highlight of our visit to Green Bay.  Tours are offered seasonally Monday through Friday between 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.  Call (920) 496-5647 for information.

Stroll through Heritage Hills State Historical Park 

Opened 40 years ago, the 54-acre park interprets the history and people of northeastern Wisconsin.  Over two dozen historical buildings including a church, firehouse, farmhouse, blacksmith shop and fur trade cabin are open to visitors.  Employees and volunteers present living history programs.  Themed areas of the park include agriculture, military, community and the early fur trade.  Special events including reenactments and music are offered periodically.  Visit www.heritagehillgb.org, or phone (800) 721-5150 for information.

Visit the National Shrine of Our Lady of Good Help 

The shrine preserves the location where young Belgian immigrant, Adele Brise – later Sister Adele – was visited by the Holy Mother on three occasions in 1859.  A chapel built by Adel’s father on the site of the apparition was replaced in 1942 by the current church.  People from around the world have been visiting here for more than 150 years with nearly 130,000 visitors last year alone.  The apparitions were officially confirmed by the Catholic Church in 2010 and six years later the grounds were designated a National Shrine by the United States Conference of Catholic Bishops.  The shrine, open to the general public, is 15 miles northeast of Green Bay in the community of Champion.  Visit www.shrineofourladyofgoodhelp.com.

Enjoy yourself at Bay Beach Amusement Park 

It is uplifting to be among a lot of people, especially children, having a good time.  Our June visit to Green Bay’s 125-year-old retro amusement park was just the ticket for a good dose of uplifting.  We saw lots of youngsters with smiles on their faces as they rode in small racecars or equally small boats.  We also heard lots of yelling from grownups riding the Zippin Pippin wooden roller coaster. There is no charge to stroll about the attractive park and most of the rides cost 25 or 50 cents. What a deal!  Visit http://greenbaywi.gov/baybeach/

Satisfy your sweet tooth at Uncle Mike’s Bake Shoppe 

Walking through the entrance, we thought this might be heaven.  Glass display cases to our right were filled with pies, donuts, breakfast rolls, muffins, cakes and Kringles, with generous samples of each spread across the top shelf.  We’ve never been in such a wonderful bakery, not even in France or Germany.  

The family-owned business last year was named North American Kringle Competition Grand Champion and we understand why.  It might be strange to include a bakery in a list of Green Bay’s best attractions, but this place is worthy of being declared a national monument.

David and Kay Scott are authors of “Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges” (Globe Pequot).  Visit them at mypages.valdosta.edu/dlscott/Scott.html 

Getting There: Green Bay’s airport is served by Delta, American, United and Alaska airlines.  Appleton, 25 miles south, is served by Delta, American and United airlines.

Lodging:  Major hotel chains are represented in Green Bay.  The Radisson Hotel & Conference Center is connected to the Oneida Casino and near the airport.  Lodge Kohler, across from Lambeau Field in the new Titletown District, is an upscale hotel and spa scheduled for mid-July opening.

Food:  Hinterland Brewery and Restaurant recently relocated to the new Titletown District, and Kroll’s West just across the street are both popular with locals.  Wally’s Spot Supper Club offers great steaks and Lorelei Inn is known for authentic German food. Bay Family Restaurant is a superior choice for breakfast, especially if you enjoy blueberry pancakes. Don’t forget Uncle Mike’s Bake Shoppe.

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