TRAVEL: History permeates Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley gateway

We have discovered during decades of travel that nearly every community, however small, has a story worth telling. It may be a tale about an individual who once resided there or a long ago battle fought nearby. Perhaps it is a bridge with a rich history or a house where something of consequence took place. Unique museums, monuments, stores and people offer insight about a community’s character and history. Discovering these stories makes travel more enjoyable.

This proved true yet again during an early June visit to Virginia’s Rockbridge County, home to small towns, scenic vistas, multiple universities, friendly residents and some interesting history. During our four-day stay we visited an historic farm, toured a couple of fine museums, visited with the newly-minted owner of a 1700s grist mill, dined at some excellent restaurants, knocked back a few cold ones from local craft breweries and learned about a restored drive-in theater.

Rockbridge County, flanked by the Blue Ridge Mountains (a section of the Appalachians) to the east and the Allegheny Mountains to the west, is at the southern terminus of the famed Shenandoah Valley. Lexington, with 7,500 residents, is the county’s largest community.

If You Go

Lexington is approximately 50 miles north of Roanoke, Virginia, an hour’s drive from the Roanoke airport via Interstate 81. For additional information on Lexington and Rockbridge County, contact the Tourism Bureau, 106 E. Washington Street, Lexington, VA 24450; (540) 463-3777 or visit www.lexingtonvirginia.com.

Food: For a small town, Lexington has a surprising number of good restaurants. A few we enjoyed were Bistro on Main, Haywood’s, Rocco Bar Ristorante, Southern Inn Restaurant and The Palms. Stop at Sweet Things Ice Cream and binge on a homemade treat.

Lodging: Downtown Lexington offers several lodging options including The Robert E. Lee Hotel, The Georges and a very unusual Hampton Inn. The Natural Bridge area is home to several historic homes operated as B&B’s. These include The Inn at Forest Oaks, Herring Hall, plus a 1926 C&O caboose. Near Buena Vista, South River Highlands Country Retreat offers both rooms and cabins.

As you might expect in a rural and mountainous region of Virginia, recreational possibilities are plentiful, with hiking, canoeing, kayaking, golfing, fishing and horseback riding. One of the county’s best-known features is the mammoth 215-foot tall limestone arch that is part of Natural Bridge State Park. The property was once owned by Thomas Jefferson, who purchased 157 acres and built a cabin that would serve as a retreat.

What we didn’t anticipate was the degree to which the county is steeped in history. It is home to military museums, Stonewall Jackson’s home, the farm where Cyrus McCormick developed the mechanical reaper, and three universities, one of which employed Robert E. Lee as president.

We gained an excellent overview of Lexington during a narrated horse-drawn carriage ride with owner Shana Layman, who served as driver and guide. The ride included numerous stops during which Shana offer insights on the town’s history. The tour through downtown also included residential areas with beautiful homes built in the early and mid-1880s.

Lexington serves as home to two university campuses – Virginia Military Institute (VMI) and Washington and Lee University – both of which enjoy a rich history. VMI, founded in 1839 as the nation’s first state-sponsored military college has an interesting museum with exhibits relating the school’s graduates to the nation’s history. Famed Confederate general “Stonewall” Jackson taught and drilled the cadets at VMI. A second interesting museum honors the accomplishments of George C. Marshall, VMI’s most famous graduate.

Washington and Lee, founded in 1749, enjoys a beautiful campus. The Lee Chapel and Museum is named in honor of Robert E. Lee, who served as president of the university from 1865 until his death in 1870. During his tenure, Lee made dramatic changes to the university including the addition of a law school. He and his family members are buried in a mausoleum under Lee Chapel. Lee’s favorite horse, Traveler, is buried next to the chapel.

The northern part of Rockbridge County boasts several interesting historical sites. Cyrus McCormick’s farm and workshop, where he improved and patented the mechanical reaper, is located at Steel’s Tavern. We enjoyed part of a quiet afternoon exploring the workshop, gristmill, and McCormick family home that are National Historic National Landmarks.

Nearby, Wade’s Mill is a working grist mill built in the mid-1700’s and recently purchased by an interesting fellow who purchased the property. Three floors of the mill are open to visitors and the water wheel is operated on Saturdays and Sundays.

The sleepy village of Brownsburg was once on a main stagecoach route and appears today much as it did in the late 19th century. The small museum is a gem and a stroll down the main street is fun.

So, there you have it – a scenic and uncrowded region of Virginia filled to overflowing with some of our country’s most storied history. Don’t wait to take advantage.